I fell in love with Arizona the first time I visited it, and although my kids and I have been there many times, each time we visit, we again fall prey to its charms. Many people, especially Easterners, think of Arizona as the Grand Canyon with desert all around it. Wrong, very wrong. Did you know the largest stand of Ponderosa Pine Forest in the world is in northern Arizona? Did you know you can go skiing in Arizona and it's not on artificial snow? Do I have your attention now?

Arizona can roughly be divided into two geological sections. The southern half, which is the desert floor, and the northern half, which is a higher elevation, enjoys a more temperate spring-like climate. The dividing line is the Mogollon (pronounced Muggy Own) Rim, which runs through the middle of the state in an East-West direction. You can actually see parts of the rim and the geological upheaval from the road as you drive north or south through the state. Areas north of the rim, such as the Grand Canyon, are on-season in the summer and areas south of the rim, such as Scottsdale and the Valley of the Sun, are off-season in the summer.

Except for rush hour in Phoenix, driving through the state of Arizona is a joy. Roads are good and mostly uncrowded. In spite of the heat and the intense desert sun you can enjoy a summer vacation in Southern Arizona. You need to get an early morning start for outdoor attractions and you must remember to always carry water with you and in the car. Drink water periodically, even if you are not thirsty, and wear lightweight loose clothing that covers your shoulders and always wear a hat when out in the desert sun. There is so much to see and do in Arizona that you cannot cover all the major attractions in two weeks. So whether your vacation is one week, ten days, or two weeks, you will have to pick and choose. Here are some suggestions starting with Tucson and then proceeding north.

Tucson You can fly directly into Tucson, although many people elect to fly into Phoenix and then make the two-hour drive south to Tucson, as Phoenix usually offers more competitive airfares. Using Tucson as a base, you can visit numerous nearby attractions. Allow a stay of two or three nights or more, depending upon what you want to see. If you travel to Tucson in the summer, I suggest finding a resort hotel with a really nice pool, negotiating for a reasonable off-season rate, and then plan to do all your sightseeing in the morning (get an early start!), returning to the hotel at 2:00 or 3:00 p.m. for a long refreshing swim. The sun is blinding if you swim earlier in the day and you can easily stay in the pool until 6:00 p.m. or later without getting chilled. I also recommend buying a cheap cooler upon arrival in Arizona and filling it each morning with fresh water, fruit and picnic food. Tucson's official Web site is www.ci.tucson.az.us/.

The major attractions surrounding Tucson are:

Arizona-Sonora Museum
This world-class outdoor museum is also a botanical garden and mini-zoo with over two miles (3.5 km) of self-guided trails to stroll. It borders Saguaro National Park, just west of Tucson. I recommend going early in the morning (it opens 7:30am) and visiting it early in your trip so you can learn about the flora and fauna of the Sonoran Desert. It is great fun for everyone and very educational. Phone 520-883-1380 or visit www.DesertMuseum.org.

The "New" Old Tucson Movie Studio
Much of this Old West theme park and movie lot was destroyed in a 1995 fire but it has been rebuilt and you can still enjoy the old sound stages and sites where many John Wayne and western films were made. It is full of tourists and snacks are overpriced but it is fun nonetheless. Located near the Arizona-Sonora Museum, it is possible to do both attractions in one day and still have time for an afternoon swim (if you get an early start). The Web site is www.desertusa.com/mag98/dec/stories/studio.html.

Saguaro National Park (The "g" in Saguaro is pronounced like an "h")
Located both east and west of Tucson, both sites merit a visit so you can see both the old and the new growths of these magnificent sentinels of the Sonoran Desert. Visit www.nps.gov/sagu/

Nogales
Both the U.S. and the Mexican town share the same name. About a one hour fifteen minute drive south of Tucson, this typical border town offers lots of shopping for Mexican crafts. Leave your car on the U.S. side and walk over the border. Don't bother to change your money; all the stores take dollars. Although border-crossing formalities are usually lax in these towns there is always the chance you may be asked to show your proof of citizenship as well as written permission from your child's other parent allowing you to take your child out of the country, so be prepared with the appropriate documents. For information about shopping in Nogales, Mexico, click on www.azcentral.com/travel/destinations/mexico/nogshop.shtml

Mission San Xavier
Enroute to Nogales, you can stop at Mission San Xavier, recognizable by that beautiful whitewashed façade often featured in advertisements of Tucson. It is located nine miles (14 km) southeast of Tucson. For more information call 520-294-2624 or visit www.opus1.com/emol/tucson/SANXAVIER/SANXAVIER.HTML.

Tombstone
Although it has changed through the years (the town's original dusty main street is now paved), it still has one of the funkiest cemeteries in the world. It is worth the trip just to read the tombstones and visit the graves of some of the most colorful figures in our Wild West history. Tombstone is about an hour and fifteen minutes southwest of Tucson. Be prepared for lots of tourists and stores with honky tonk wares. The Web site for "The Town Too Tough to Die" is www.americanwest.com/pages/tombston.htm.

Kitt Peak National Observatory
If you have never visited an astronomical observatory, consider touring Kitt Peak, as it is one of the more accessible observatories. The road up the mountain is full of switchbacks but it is an excellent paved road. Kitt Peak has the largest collection of optical telescopes in the world. Tours of the site are offered throughout the day. For further information call 520-318-8000 or click on www.noao.edu/kpno/

A note on shopping: One of the best places to shop for quality Native American crafts and silver jewelry in the state of Arizona is the section of Tucson called "Old Tucson." This area offers an extensive selection of stores and crafts with reasonable rates. Some good buys can also be found on roadside stands throughout the state where the Native Americans sell directly to the public, but quality of workmanship isn't always reliable, so examine carefully what you buy. Make sure the catches work properly and there aren't any sharp edges on the jewelry that could poke or pull your clothing.

Phoenix, Scottsdale, and the Valley of the Sun
I don't recommend spending a lot of time in this area for single adults traveling with kids. Phoenix is a large city of over one million people, the area tends to be pricey, and there are so many other areas in the state that offer many natural attractions that are unique to Arizona. Having said that, there are a few attractions in the Phoenix area I would recommend. Perhaps you can squeeze one or two into your itinerary on your way to or from another part of the state. The Scottsdale tourism Web site is www.ci.scottsdale.az.us/visitors/.

The Heard Museum of Anthropology and Primitive Art
This is the premier museum of Phoenix and contains a vast and impressive kachina doll collection from the estate of former Senator Barry Goldwater. Visit www.heard.org/.

Boyce Thompson Arboretum
Located sixty miles (97 km) east of Phoenix near the town of Superior, this unusual place offers miles/kilometers of hiking trails through canyons and desert gardens. Allow at least two hours for the visit. Web site address is ag.arizona.edu/BTA/.

Out of Africa
This wildlife park is unique in the world. The kids and I really enjoyed it and learned a lot about big cat behavior. It is not a zoo but a living area for big cats, in a natural environment. The staff swims with the tigers, plays with the lions, and is even chased by a pack of wolves while bears dive in giant pools. There are no rehearsed shows; everything is spontaneous. The staff members are all ages, including retired gray-hairs. If you are fascinated with big cats, like my kids and me this is the place to go. There is a restaurant and gift shop on the premises. Allow about three hours for your visit, not counting lunch. The wildlife park is located in Fountain Hills (Scottsdale), off the Beeline Highway, 87. Phone 480-837-7779 or visit www.desertusa.com/mag00/oct/stories/out.html.

Arcosanti
About ninety miles (145 km) north of Phoenix, right off I-17, is an interesting place to stop. Famed Italian architect Pablo Soleri has created an experimental architectural town in the middle of the desert. There is a small donation to enter the premises and tours are offered hourly. This is where they craft the famous Soleri wind bells and artwork sculpture, many of which grace the foyers of corporate headquarters around the world. There are little ones for sale as well. All are originals and make nice souvenirs. www.arcosanti.org/.

Sedona
Sedona is a two hour drive from Phoenix and I recommend for those flying into Phoenix to either drive two hours south to Tucson or north to Sedona for your first overnight stay. Sedona is one of my favorite places in the world (my kids agree!) and one of the very few areas where I would consider living that is not near an ocean. The town is surrounded by glorious red rocks, soaked in mystical vibes, and gives off a peaceful, yet energetic feeling to those who visit. Restaurants and lodging vary from high quality expensive to plain and simple. There is always something going on in Sedona, either a festival (cultural, musical, food), a psychic fair or an artisans' display. The perpetual spring-like climate makes it a year-round destination. As more and more people "discover" Sedona, real estate values will continue to go up, but for the moment, tourist-wise, it is a terrific place to visit. I recommend at least two full days to enjoy the area. Here are a few of the attractions:

• Hiking - There are many half-day hikes but if your time is limited and you want drop-dead scenery on a short hike (less than an hour) be sure to hike up Bell Mountain (easy) or Cathedral Rock. (a little harder). You will recognize Cathedral Rock as the poster child of Sedona. Many of the popular hikes are on vortices (plural for vortex). Don't be surprised to see a fellow hiker perched on a scenic rock in a state of meditation or contemplation.
• Pink Jeep Tours - Fun, but expensive on a single parent budget. If you can't afford it, just do the hikes. They are glorious.
• Psychic Reading - Fun to do and rates are reasonable given all the competition.
• Tlaquepaque - This is a must-do shopping excursion for the whole family. Tlaquepaque is a recreated "perfect" Spanish village filled with one-of-a-kind shops, not cheap, but offering beautiful jewelry and artisan's creations. Lots of little restaurants too. Tlaquepaque is pronounced just the way it is spelled. ("tla kay PAH kay").
• Slide Rock State Park - Located just north of town, this park contains a natural (not man-made) water slide. The slippery moss-covered red rocks lead into pools of water. It is oodles of fun. Bring an old bathing suit or old shorts to wear over your bathing suit as the rock surface may ruin your brand new bathing suit. Go early in the day; visitors are sometimes limited.
• Oak Creek Canyon - refers to both the recreational area surrounding Sedona as well as the dramatically scenic drive leading north out of Sedona. Plan on doing that drive during the daylight.

Tourist Web sites for Sedona are: www.sedona.net/ and www.sedonavisitorsguide.com/.

Jerome
To the west of Sedona is an old mining town, which became a ghost town and later reemerged as a tourist center full of artisan shops and historic buildings. The mile-high town sits on a steep hillside and the drive up there has sweeping views of the valley below. Visit www.azjerome.com/.

Flagstaff
Not the prettiest of Arizona towns, Flagstaff is often used as a jumping off point for Sedona, the Grand Canyon or other sights in the area. The main attraction in Flagstaff is the outstanding Museum of Northern Arizona, just outside of town, heading north on North Fort Valley Road. The outdoor exhibits of the various pueblo periods are excellent. Click on www.musnaz.org/. There are a number of sites offering accommodation and tourist information on Flagstaff: www.flagstaff-arizona.com/, www.flagguide.com/, and www.flagstaff.az.gov/. A short drive from Flagstaff are three attractions we haven't yet visited, but keep meaning to. One of these days.

• Sunset Crater National Monument - (north of Flagstaff). The attractions here are the dead volcanic cone, the colorful array of mineral formations, and the Lava Flow Nature Trail which begins at the base of the crater and climbs 1,000 feet (300 m) to the top, with a view of the Painted Desert and Humphrey's Peak.
• Arizona Snow Bowl - Just south of Sunset Crater, this is the mountain where you snow ski in Arizona. The double-chair lift is open year round.
• Meteor Crater - East of Flagstaff, this moon-like crater was featured in the movie "Starman" with Jeff Bridges. It has also been a training site for astronauts. For more details visit www.meteorcrater.com/.

Grand Canyon National Park
Awesome. If you have to describe the Grand Canyon in one word, that's the one I would select. First we will talk about the sights at the South Rim, where 90% of the visitors stay. To sample the major sights of the Grand Canyon requires at least two days. Try to book a hotel on or near the rim. To do that you will need to make reservations at least nine months in advance for summertime arrivals. El Tovar Lodge is the premier lodge in the area. If your budget cannot afford staying there, then consider splurging for a dinner in the classy old world dining room. (Advance reservations required). Failing that, at least visit the place.

Second choice would be the Bright Angel Lodge. This is a very historic building with old plumbing, but a lot cheaper than the El Tovar and in a primo location. When we checked into our first floor room, my then seven-year-old son, always in motion, climbed out the window and returned to announce he had stood at the rim. Busy unpacking, I absentmindedly replied, "Yes, honey, we'll come look at the canyon." When I peeked out the window, I shrieked. We weren't near the rim. We were at the rim. Now that's a primo location! Bright Angel Lodge has a great little Fred Harvey historical museum off the main lobby. Don't miss it.

For information and reservations on accommodations within the park, call 303 297-2757 or visit www.grandcanyonlodges.com/lodging.htm where you can make on-line reservations.. Phone reservation hours are 7:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., Mountain Time, seven days a week. Hotel reservations may be made as far ahead as two years before scheduled arrival. You can also book mule rides and make dinner reservations on this site. All reservations are handled by Amfac, the country's largest national and state park concessionaire. For further information on Grand Canyon and other national parks check out their handy dandy Web site www.amfac.com. The new address for the official government Web site for Grand Canyon National Park is www.nps.gov/grca/. When I last checked it, it was having navigation difficulties.

Meal service in the grand old dining rooms of the historic lodges is slow but the atmosphere is great and the food is good, so plan accordingly. Do make advance reservations. (See Web site address above). For breakfast or lunch I recommend eating in one of the sterile cafeterias unless you have time to waste, or better yet, buy the ingredients for a picnic lunch and hit the trail.

Things to do at the Grand Canyon:

• Sign up for a free park ranger guided tour. You and your kids will learn all kinds of neat things. This is where I learned to bear hug a Ponderosa Pine Tree. Did you know it smells like butterscotch?
• Hike down the Bright Angel Trail. Even if you walk down for ten or fifteen minutes, you will have passed by thousands of years of geological history. Dropping down below the rim immediately changes your perspective on things. Keep in mind a hike of one hour down means a hike of two hours up. Take all the water you need on your hike, plus sunscreen and a hat. The temperature goes up as you go down. There are no facilities on the trail.

To hike all the way to the Colorado River would require five to six hours down and ten hours up. People that do this stay overnight at Phantom Ranch, which is dormitory lodging at the bottom of the canyon. You must pre-reserve accommodations. Another way to make the trip is to take a Canyon Mule Ride. This is a very strenuous trip, with age and weight restrictions. You must pre-book this ride at least a year ahead. It is really not for families with young children as seven hours in the saddle is a long time for kids. What I do recommend is to linger around the rim early in the morning and listen to the cowboys give their lecture to the mule ride participants. It is both funny and serious and a whole other culture.

• Visit the Yavapai Museum on the canyon rim, which superbly explains the geology of the area. Time permitting, take the East Rim Drive to the Tusayan Museum, which describes the life of the prehistoric Indians in this area 800 years ago.
• Watch the sunset. The changing of the colors of the canyon will amaze you. Have your camera ready with lots of film.

The North Rim of the Grand Canyon is more easily accessible if you are coming down from Utah. The only place to stay here is the delightful Grand Canyon Lodge. You must have advance reservations. The North Rim is higher and colder than the South Rim and is only open May through October. We actually encountered a brief snowstorm on our way to the North Rim on a mid-July trip. The atmosphere is much quieter on this side of the canyon. For hotel and dinner reservations you can call Amfac at 303-297-2757 or click on www.grandcanyonnorthrim.com/ for on-line reservations.

Monument Valley Navajo
Tribal Park Located about 125 miles (200 km) northeast of the Grand Canyon, on the Arizona/Utah border, is one of the most remote and stunning places in the world. If it is at all possible to include an overnight stay at Monument Valley in your travel plans, do so. For details on this remarkable place read the section on Utah, which follows immediately after Arizona.

Four Corners Monument
East of Monument Valley, this is the only place in the USA where four state borders meet - Utah, Arizona, Colorado, and New Mexico. The de rigeur photograph is to stand on the monument and pose as you touch all four states with your arms and legs. There's not much else to do here other than a few tourist shops. I wouldn't go out of your way to come here but it is a fun thing to do if you are sweeping down and around to another northeastern part of the state. The monument is part of the Navajo Nation and, as such, is subject to tribal laws and time zones. Visit www.navajonationparks.org/fourcorner.html

Canyon de Chelly
Located in the remote northeast corner of Arizona, this beautiful red rock canyon area offers an opportunity to learn how the ancients lived as well as an exciting jeep ride through the canyons with Navajo guides as your drivers. The name De Chelly is a Spanish corruption of the Navajo word "Tsegi," which means roughly "rock canyon." The Spanish pronunciation "day shay-yee" has gradually changed through English usage, and the name is now pronounced Canyon "d'shay." This is family fun for everyone. Allow a full day for the jeep ride and another half day to do the rim drive and some short hikes down to the canyon floor. There are half day jeep tours but I highly recommend the full day tour which takes you out to the famous Spider Rock. It is worth the difference in price.

Allow for a two-night stay in the area, either at the Thunderbird Lodge at the monument or in the nearby town of Chinle. Jeep tours may be booked through the Thunderbird Lodge. Their Web site is www.tbirdlodge.com/Tours.htm. For general information on the area, try the government Web site www.nps.gov/cach/. If you are having problems navigating the government site, other sites are: www.navajoland.com/cdc/ and www.desertusa.com/ind1/du_cdc_main.html.

Heading south from Canyon de Chelly are two attractions worth a visit enroute to the main road of I-40:

• Window Rock - the Capital of the Navajo Nation. There are few tourist attractions here, other than the Tribal Museum and the nearby Natural Bridge, but it is interesting to see the construction of the buildings. Web site is www.azohwy.com/w/windowro.htm.
• Hubbell Trading Post - This national historic site has preserved the trading post created by John Hubbell for his Navajo neighbors. You can still shop there today. Visit www.nps.gov/hutr/hubbell.htm.

Painted Desert and Petrified Forest
These adjacent attractions may be covered in a full day if you get an early start. You can then overnight in nearby Holbrook or further south in the towns of Snowflake or Show Low. The Painted Desert is as beautiful as it sounds and there are easy hikes you can take right off the main road. Bring plenty of water and sun protection with you. The Petrified Forest is interesting and very educational and also offers many loop hikes. Make sure to see the short film at the Visitor's Center before venturing out into the park. When we hiked the Painted Desert I thought to myself, "Boy, this scenery looks familiar." That night, after checking into our motel, my son and I watched an old Western movie and we were delighted to see that the backdrop of the movie was the Painted Desert hike we had done earlier in the day. The government Web site is : www.nps.gov/pefo/. If that gives you trouble, try this one: www.wmonline.com/attract/pforest/pforest.htm.

Just south of Show Low is the Lakeside/Pinetop recreational area, which straddles the Mogollon Rim. Along this rim are some beautiful easy hikes through the Ponderosa Pine area, one of which was a former pioneer trail. You are so completely surrounded by greenery you will find it hard to believe you are in Arizona. The trailheads are not well marked so you must ask directions of the locals.

From here you head back to Phoenix via scenic State Highway 60. Just after the town of Miami is the Boyce Thompson Arboretum, mentioned earlier under Phoenix. Plan to stop there.

We hope you are as captivated by Arizona as we have been!

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